Comedian Steve Martin had an old bit he used to do that always made me smile. He told his audience he was going to tell them how to make a million dollars. “First,” he’d say, “you get a million dollars…”
Funny, right?
I made a beautiful boule of sourdough bread last week, thanks to the “starter” that my daughter left me when she visited earlier this summer. The directions for making the bread were a bit confusing to me at first … it’s a process, for sure. But it turned out amazingly well and when friends asked me for the recipe, I began to write down the steps one by one, simplifying as best I could. Before I started, though, I remembered Steve Martin’s joke and it resonated in a different way…
In order to start to make sourdough bread, first, you need “starter.”
You can buy it, you can be gifted it, or you can make your own. But these directions do not begin to make sense until you have the “starter!”
I’ve tried to make this as simple as possible, anticipating every question, since I had so many! That’s why there are so many steps. But it sounds more complicated than it is, I promise. If you have the time and the inclination, give it a try… if I can do it, you can do it!
OK? Now — begin,.
Sourdough
This is definitely a process -- it does take a while, but it's really just a step by step thing. Hang in there and try it. My daughter, Amanda, inspired me -- hers were amazing. And now new mama Dana has been turning out gorgeous loaves that she's giving as thank you's to people who brought over meals after the baby was born (the top photo above is hers!) Both daughters have now become quite the experts and have patiently answered my questions about leaven and rising and all that science-y stuff that is part of this activity. Yes, the other covid cooking rage, banana bread, is easier, but this bread is very special, if you're prepared to be patient!! I should mention that a metric scale and dough scraper are handy to have here -- we are measuring in grams. And you will need some bowls and 2 Dutch ovens with lids that can go in a hot oven, about 4 quart capacity -- a little bigger or smaller is ok.
Ingredients
- Sourdough starter
- Flour (all-purpose or bread flour)
- Flour (whole wheat)
- Flour (rice)
- Sea salt
Instructions
- In the evening, before you go to bed, take 3 tablespoons of your starter (some people use less but Amanda says using 2 -3 T helps the rising) and mix it with 200 grams of all-purpose or bread flour and 200 grams of 80F degree water in a big bowl.
- Go to sleep!
- In the morning, this mixture is your leaven. We will now call it "leaven!"
- Now: Mix 100 grams of whole wheat flour and 900 grams of white flour in another bowl.
- Take out 200 grams of your overnight leaven and mix it with 700 grams of 80F degree water and the whole wheat/white flour mixture. Let this sit for 30 minutes. Your mixture will be wet, it's ok.
- (You can use the leftover leaven as your new starter or add it to the old starter... this is how starter can be available for years!)
- After 30 minutes, mix in about 50 grams of 80F degree water (you can use less water so it's not as sticky but most experts say to use close to 50) and 20 grams of sea salt .
- Now you're going to start what is called the "bench rest." Let the mixture sit for at least 3 hours in a place with stable temperature (I like to preheat my oven to a very low temperature and then turn it off, using the warmed oven as my "stable temperature" place to help the dough rise while it rests). But DURING THOSE 3 HOURS, DO THE FOLLOWING:
- Now, this part is important: every 30 minutes or so, give it a "turn" or a "fold." That means, with your hands, dig deep into the bottom of the bowl and pull the dough from the bottom even if it feels stuck to it, then fold over about a third of the batter at a time into the middle, turn the bowl ninety degrees and do the next third, then the next. Do this every 30 minutes but after the first couple of hours, you can make the turns more gentle. (I set a timer, but it's ok if you're a little late or even miss one turn -- just try.)
- After the bench rest, it's time to shape the dough. Lightly flour a countertop or board and dump out the dough. Use a dough scraper if you have one, or a sharp knife, and cut the dough lump in half... now you have two!
- Flip it so the floured side is on top and in as few movements as possible, shape it into two rounds, trying not to use more flour -- the dough will probably be very elastic and sticky -- that's ok. Try not to add more flour here (but if you must add a little it will probably be ok.)
- Let it all sit for 30 minutes.
- Now - -pull and fold each ball of dough from front, side, and back up into the middle of the top..
- Make a small 50/50 mix of wheat and rice flour.
- Put a smooth dish towel in each of two medium-sized baskets or bowls. Then gently flour each with the 50/50 mix of wheat/rice flour so the dough doesn't stick to the towel.
- Carefully put each loaf in a towel-lined bowl, seam side down, then flip to seam side up so top is floured with the wheat/rice mix.
- Let this sit in the fridge for about 2 hours (alternatively, you can leave it on the counter for 3 - 4 hours instead).
- Preheat oven to 500F degrees, and put your 2 Dutch ovens AND their lids in the oven as it preheats. (I bake them separately in 2 ovens but if you have room, you can bake them at the same time in one).
- Take the dough out of the fridge.
- After about 20 minutes, carefully take the 2 very hot large Dutch ovens with lids out of the oven and carefully dump the doughs in, making a cut or two on an angle with a razor blade or sharp knife on the top of the doughs..
- Put the doughs back in the oven with the lids on (careful, it's very hot in there!) and immediately reduce temperature to 450F degrees.
- After 20 minutes, take the lids off and let the loaves bake for another 30-40 minutes. Keep an eye out for burning but do make sure it's dark. It should be very dark -- that will give you your crisp top.
- When done, carefully remove from oven and turn the loaves out onto a wire rack to cool completely.
- Voila -- you did it!
- OR - if all this seems crazy, go to your nearest bakery and get some sourdough bread. But I promise, unless you live in Paris and can get to the fabulous Poilane boulangerie, this will be the most amazing bread you can have. And I also promise that once you do it a time or two, it won't seem as intimidating -- it's a very satisfying achievement! Also delicious. (Alternatively, get on the good side of someone who attempts the above and hope they will share their results).
- Toast it, add good butter and a sprinkle of sea salt -- maybe some homemade jam -- oh yes!
- We had it as an appetizer, sliced thin and spread with softened goat cheese and fig preserves -- lovely!